At the next stop, Pylos, we can moor with a gentle breeze. The huge bay has history! Here in the bay of Navarino the united naval force of France, Russia, and England once sank 53 of 89 Turkish warships
4-week cruise around the Peloponnese
Part 3, Eastern Peloponnese – The Isthmus of Corinth – Back to Nydri
A cruise report by W. Schock
Hydra, overrun by tourists did not appeal to us and because of the acute lack of berths and the overabundance of tourists, we did without. Porto Heli we left out because of the always large crowd.
At the port of Ermioni, we left Bb transverse and sought instead a cozy anchorage near Spathi. Before bow anchor and secured with a stern line on the “Eiger North Face”, we expected a cozy evening and a quiet night. But it came differently: So about 22:00 came a proper wind and suddenly it blew right in front. The tugging at the anchor increased and the distance from the stern to the near shore became increasingly smaller. Going ashore and releasing the lines so that we could raise the anchor seemed too dangerous. So, we cut the stern line and moved to a quiet sheltered part of the bay at 1 nm, where we lay quietly for the rest of the night. The next morning, we retrieved the remaining shoreline.
It was a nice relaxed day of sailing, which took us to the island of Poros with its port of the same name.
Lucky as we are, we found a top berth at the jetty, which was not yet closed. The floating pier was closed due to accident risk, but a few bozos moored anyway and were then asked to pay. High above the harbor, we experienced a few years ago in a taverna with many other guests the debacle of the Brazilians at the match against Germany. Aegina again was a worthwhile destination and in the early afternoon, we reached our berth in the middle of town. The usual procedure: City stroll, shopping, and finding a good restaurant.
Our next destination was Epidaurus. In Neo Epidaurus, we found a nice berth and here a cat stole our freshly bought chops from the table during the night. The ancient theater was the destination of our “balladeer” Yogi. Once playing the guitar in the arena of Epidaurus with its great acoustics was his big goal. Tensely Ernst and I listened to the tones of our “Troubadix”. In no time the arena was empty!
With good wind and under full sail we cover the few miles to Korfos. A well-protected bay is the Limin Sofikou. Swaying at anchor on 3 m WT we enjoy the surroundings. At the tavern host, we used shower facilities and dined extensively.
The channel of Corinth proved again immensely expensive. It is the most expensive canal worldwide! But the passage is always an adventure. We escaped the tangle of lines in the harbor of Corinth because we docked alongside the pier in the large harbor basin. A city that in our opinion was not worth a longer stay.
Further with a strong W-wind. Under full sail to the island of Triziona, where we were able to catch a quiet spot on the pier after an exhausting day of sailing. The small harbor is full of permanent berth holders, as no berthing fees are charged here. It is a nice place with very good gastronomy and friendly inhabitants. It is always worthwhile to stay here. We leave the port of Patras at Bb and also Navpaktos (much too small) at starboard.
The passage under the Rion Bridge after prior registration is an experience. After we had registered via VHF and indicated sailing direction and mast height, the instruction for the passage was: Two Pylon Right and Two Pylon on the left Side. An impressive structure spans the Gulf of Corinth at its narrowest point. Our route today is a long one and well worth seeing. Sometime in the late afternoon, we see the approach buoy of Messolongio. In calm seas, we sail under the engine through the Messolongio channel the 2 nm to the marina, where we are assigned a berth. We bunker water, but we do not need electricity thanks to the PV system. We explore the beautiful town, whose inhabitants once blew themselves up in 1826 after a long siege by the Turks and betrayal from their ranks, which was followed by a gruesome slaughter, to escape capture.
Now the circle closes slowly. As we pass Ns Oxeia and head for our “cave bay” with the anchorage “green tree”, we are overcome by some melancholy. Wonderful 4 weeks lie just aft in the wake and already we make in the evening in comfortable round plans for the next year. The next day we lift the anchor in time and are in the anchorage Vlychon, 1nm away from the base. On the last day around noon, we arrive at the jetty at Skorpios. The checkout was done quickly and without any problems and a few tiny things, which in to improve were communicated to Vasilis.
A wonderful sailing trip without any problems has come to an end. As a first act, we have booked again for next year 4 weeks. There it goes then the other way around. We are already looking forward to it.
Part 1. From, Nidri to Kyparissia Yogi from Colombia, Ernst and I (Walter) from the “Franconian Lake District” sail now for many years in 4 weeks once “Around the Peloponnese”.